Lunar Owner's Handbook (2019)
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Lunar Owner's Handbook (2019).
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
N/A | Coupling mechanism and front/rear friction pads wear indicator shows red lower section obscuring green section | Check these parts immediately. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Left/right friction pads arrowhead lines up with the two red lines on the AKS 3004 stabiliser Possible Cause: Friction pads are worn | Replace friction pads immediately. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Overheating of the brakes and failure of the bearings Possible Cause: Failure to ensure that the handbrake is completely off | Release the handbrake completely. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump will not run Possible Cause: Pump could be faulty or a wire disconnected. | Check that the pump isolating switch is turned on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump cycles on/off Possible Cause: Battery voltage may be too low (at or below 10.5 Volts). | Adjust switch (see text) and/or recharge battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump cycles on/off Possible Cause: Air or water leaks in taps and piping. | Check for air or water leaks in taps and piping. Re-adjust pressure switch. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump cycles on/off Possible Cause: Non-return valve may be held open by grit. | Study the exploded drawing and remove the three assembly screws to gain access to the non-return valve. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump motor runs steadily and will not stop Possible Cause: Battery voltage may be too low (at or below 10.5 volts) | Recharge or check battery voltage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump motor runs steadily and will not stop Possible Cause: Air leak in pipe-work. | Check all connections in the pipe-work. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump motor runs steadily and will not stop Possible Cause: Pump is probably air locked. | Remove the adjusting screw, if motor still runs, turn off the isolator switch and reprime the pump (see text). | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Connecting lead between the site and caravan not connected | Check and connect lead | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: RCD switched off | Reset RCD | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: RCD not operating correctly | Check supply polarity; if the RCD continues to fail contact your dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: MCB switched off | Reset MCB by switching OFF (down position) then back ON (up position), if the MCB continues to fail contact your dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No or deficient supply from site | Contact site warden for assistance | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Other fault | Contact your dealer | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Control Panel Problems - Control Panel has no display | Check batteries and fuses, turn PSU isolate switch and charger switch on and ensure mains supply is connected. Check control panel connecting lead at PSU and behind Control Panel. Contact your Dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Control Panel Problems - 12V Power turns off Possible Cause: Battery protect feature has operated to protect the Vehicle battery and/or the Leisure battery, or Over voltage protection has been activated. | Check battery protection details (section 3.4C). For over voltage protection, check the solar panel regulator is connected correctly and operating within the correct parameters. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control Panel Problems - Control Panel locked/erratic function Possible Cause: Control panel software may have crashed or handling instructions not observed. | Observe control panel handling instructions. Reboot control panel by turning off the PSU isolate switch. Wait 30 seconds then turn the switch back on. Check with your dealer that your system has the latest software installed. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 12 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No 230V supply, power button not switched on, charger not switched on, battery not connected/charged, flat battery or blown fuse. | Check 230V supply, turn power on at control panel, turn charger switch on, install/recharge battery, check and replace blown fuses, check charging voltage is present at battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Fuse blown, pump turned off, equipment switched off/unplugged. | Replace fuse with correct value, turn pump on by pressing the pump button at the control panel, check equipment is switched on and connected to the 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Lights not working Possible Cause: Fuse/s blown, lights turned off. | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table, turn lights on by pressing the lights button, use dimmer at the control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control Panel problems Possible Cause: Backlight/illumination may have switched off. | Press the power button or select button to reactivate the backlight. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control Panel problems Possible Cause: Power or wiring issue | Check batteries and fuses, turn PSU shutdown switch and charger switch on and ensure mains supply is connected. Check control panel connecting lead at PSU and behind Control Panel. Contact your Dealer | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Control panel locked/erratic function Possible Cause: Control panel handling or software crash | Observe control panel handling instructions. Control panel software may have crashed. Reboot control panel by turning off the PSU isolate switch. Wait 30 seconds then turn the switch back on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No 230V supply or charger/battery/power settings | Check all above. Turn charger switch on, switch will illuminate. Install charged battery. Turn power on at control panel. Recharge battery, check fuses, check charging voltage is present at battery. Check all fuses are intact and the correct value fuse is installed as per fuse table. Check equipment is switched on and connected to the 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | PSU overheated / auto shutdown operated Possible Cause: PSU overheated / overloaded | Reduce load on system. Allow PSU to cool down. PSU will automatically restart when cool. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Fuse blown, pump turned off, or setting incorrect | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. Turn pump on by pressing the pump button at the control panel. Ensure the setting matches your desired requirement (consult your dealer to alter internal/external pump feeds). | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Inadequate ventilation to the unit | Check that the ventilation grilles are not covered. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Thermostat setting is too low | Set thermostat to a higher level. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: The condenser is heavily frosted | Check that the refrigerator door closes properly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Too much warm food has been stored inside within short period of time | Allow warm food to cool down before storage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: The appliance has been running for only a short period of time | Check whether the cooling compartment works after approximately 4-5 hours. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Ambient temperatures too high | Regularly remove ventilation grilles. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode Possible Cause: Gas cylinder empty | Change gas cylinder. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode Possible Cause: Is the supply shut-off device open? | Open the shut-off device. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode Possible Cause: Air in the gas pipe | Switch off the appliance and start again. Repeat this procedure 3-4 times, if necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: On-board battery discharged | Check battery, charge it. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: Engine not running | Start engine. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Please inform the Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: No connection to supply voltage | Establish power connection. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: AES: gas operation despite connection to the supply voltage | Appliance switches to gas operation due to insufficient supply voltage (automatically switches back to 230V operation). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Please inform Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator 230V mode: "230V" not available or voltage too low Possible Cause: Mains power not available or voltage too low | Check 230V mains supply and voltage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator 12V mode: "12V" not available or voltage too low Possible Cause: 12V power not available or voltage too low | Check 12V power supply and voltage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator GAS/Auto mode: Flame not ignited Possible Cause: Flame failed to ignite on gas | Check gas supply, open gas cylinder and shut-off valves, and ensure lines are purged of air. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator Temperature sensor without contact or defective Possible Cause: Temperature sensor fault | Check temperature sensor connection or replace if defective. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator 230V mode: Heating element defective Possible Cause: 230V heating element failed | Replace the defective 230V heating element. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator 12V mode: Heating element defective Possible Cause: 12V heating element failed | Replace the defective 12V heating element. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator Burner defective or cooling unit defective Possible Cause: Burner or cooling unit failure | Inspect burner and cooling unit, and repair or replace as necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Oven, hob and grill: Burners do not burn evenly Possible Cause: Gas bottle is empty, gas tap is closed, burner caps are not correctly positioned, or burners are wet or clogged | Change gas bottle, open tap, allow caps to cool then reposition them, or dry/clean burners. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Oven, hob and grill: Spark ignition does not spark Possible Cause: 12V DC battery is discharged, connections are loose, or ignition points are wet or dirty | Charge battery, secure connections, or dry/clean ignition points. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Oven, hob and grill: Control knobs do not function Possible Cause: Knobs are mounted incorrectly | Install knobs correctly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: The system is completely dead, the control panel is blank Possible Cause: Blown fuse or loss of 12V supply/cable disconnection | Check the 20 mm T3.15 Amp glass fuse in the boiler under the lid of the black plastic service hatch in the green plastic fuse holder. Check the 12V supply to the boiler is above 12V. Check the 12V cable is plugged into the boiler and control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: The boiler will not ignite on gas, but no error message Possible Cause: System may not need gas if using electric heating, or fluids are already at operating temperature | Verify if electric heating is active or if system is already at operating temperature. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: The boiler will not heat on 230 V electric Possible Cause: Circuit breaker tripped, 230V fuses blown, fused spurs off, loss of 230V supply, or fluids at operating temperature | Check the circuit breaker and any 230V fuses. Check that any 230V fused spurs are on. Check the 230V supply and Standby Screen indicator. Verify if fluids are already at operating temperature. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: No hot water Possible Cause: Hot Water Ignore activated, Continuous pumping activated, conflicting control panel settings, or water supply issue | Check that Hot Water Ignore is not activated. Check that Continuous pumping is not activated. Check for other conflicting settings or restore factory defaults. Check the water pump and cold water supply to the boiler. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: No central heating Possible Cause: Air trapped in system, low fluid level, circulation pump not responding, hot water boost active, electric heating set incorrectly, or vents obstructed | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank. Check that the circulation pump is responding. Check that hot water boost is not activated. Set electric heating to 'Off' if not used, or use gas and electric together for best performance. Check that top and bottom vents in furniture are not obstructed. Check heat transfer fluid condition. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: Circulation pump is noisy Possible Cause: Air in system, low expansion tank fluid level, or inline pump speed dial set incorrectly | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank. If using an inline pump, check that the speed dial on the pump is set to 2-3. | DIY Safe |
Operational Fault | Alde heating panel failure Possible Cause: Moisture is trapped in the control panel | Remove the Alde control panel from the vehicle and air in a warm, dry place overnight. | DIY Safe |
Gas failure | Alde heating gas failure Possible Cause: Out of gas or gas is not igniting | Check the gas cylinder is full. Try a different gas cylinder, ensuring it is propane gas. Check the gas regulator and any isolation valves are open and not frozen. | DIY Safe |
Operational Fault | Alde heating overheat failure Possible Cause: Air in system, low fluid level, pump issue, momentary drop in 12V supply to 7V, or fluid too hot | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank (should be 1cm above min mark when cool). Check the correct circulation pump is installed, selected and responding. Check 12V supply stability. Wait 30 minutes for the fluid to cool down. | DIY Safe |
Overheat PCB | Alde heating PCB overheat failure Possible Cause: Failsafe in boiler has triggered, low fluid level, or boiler compartment ventilation blocked | Check the fluid level in the expansion tank (should be 1 cm above the Min mark when cool). Check the boiler compartment is ventilated and that vents are unobstructed. Do not place stowage in the boiler compartment. | DIY Safe |
Fan failure | Alde heating combustion fan failure Possible Cause: Combustion fan speed too low after multiple attempts, stiff bearing after disuse, or 12V supply instability | Check for instability in 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
Connection failure | Alde heating connection failure Possible Cause: Loose connection between Alde control panel and boiler | Unplug cable at the control panel and boiler, then carefully plug back in. Check there is slack on the cable at the control panel, but not excessive weight from free-hanging/unmanaged cable. | DIY Safe |
Window open | Alde heating window open alert Possible Cause: Optional window sensor has triggered, suspending gas heating | Automatically clears and gas heating resumes when the window is closed. | DIY Safe |
Operational Fault | Alde heating third party panel communication failure Possible Cause: Break in comms between Alde control panel and third party control panel, or third party panel installed in software but not fitted | Check the cable between the Alde control panel and third party control panel. Untick 'Third Party Panel' in Installed Accessories Menu if not fitted. | DIY Safe |
Low battery | Alde heating low battery warning Possible Cause: 12V supply to boiler has dropped below 10.5V, possibly causing system brownout | Automatically clears when 12V supply reaches 11V. | DIY Safe |
No match Heater/Panel | Alde heating heater/panel mismatch error Possible Cause: EM interference from 230V power if cables are bundled together, or conductive dirt in socket | Plug Alde control panel cable into the alternative TIN bus sockets. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Waste Pump-out system: central waste tank is too full Possible Cause: Central waste tank level indicator detects tank is too full | Empty the central waste tank before attempting further pump-out. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Very Poor (No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out) | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antennas polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. Re-tune your TV after performing any actions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Poor (Moderate pixilation and sound distortion) | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antennas polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. Re-tune your TV after performing any actions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Medium (Minor pixilation will not receive all channels) | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antennas polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. Re-tune your TV after performing any actions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Strong (Possible pixilation, picture break up and drop out) | Reduce the amplifier gain (rotate anti-clockwise). Rotate antenna AWAY from the transmitter. Re-tune your TV after performing any actions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna: Very Strong (No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out) | Rotate antenna AWAY from transmitter. Switch 'OFF' the amplifier and turn the gain control to maximum (rotate clockwise). Re-tune your TV after performing any actions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna amplifier LED does not light | Firstly check there is power to the unit. Secondly check the polarity is correct. Otherwise contact manufacturer for further assistance. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Blinds do not retract fully | Follow Tension Adjustment instructions or, for winterisation issues, gently pull crossbar downwards and toward you then allow the tension remaining in the mechanism to rewind, when it stops pull the crossbar downwards and upwards five or six times to restore correct tension. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I fill the internal water tank?
1. Connect the external pump to the left connection point on the outside of the caravan. 2. Ensure that the tank drain valve is in the closed position with the handle horizontal. 3. Rotate the handle of the red selector valve anti-clockwise to select the internal tank as the water source. 4. Use the control panel menu to switch on the external pump by scrolling until 'Tank Fill' appears and selecting it. 5. The pump will run for around 7 minutes or shut off when the tank reaches full.
Q: How do I use the caravan water system without the internal water tank?
1. Ensure the external water container is full and connect the external pump to the right connection point on the outside of the caravan. 2. Move the red selector valve close to the pump anti-clockwise to select the external source. 3. Close all taps except one, which should be open in the hot position. 4. Ensure the water heater drain valve is closed by moving the yellow handle near the tank to the horizontal position. 5. Switch the pump on using the button on the control panel. 6. Once water flows, move the tap to the cold position until water flows. 7. Repeat the procedure at each tap, including the external shower point.
Q: How do I prime a submersible water pump?
Trapped air in the submersible pump will not allow the pump to prime. Air can be released by gently shaking the pump under water while the pump is in the water tank but is switched off. If an external submersible pump is used, place the pump in the water before connecting to the side of the van.
Q: How do I adjust the pressure switch?
With the system properly primed, close all taps and showers. Leave the power supply turned on. Tighten the adjusting screw (clockwise); the pump should now be running. Partly open one cold tap to allow water to flow at about 1 pint per 15 seconds. Now slowly loosen the adjusting screw until the switch starts to click. The switch will then be properly adjusted.
Q: How do I reverse polarity when using the caravan overseas?
A plug in polarity tester is used to determine if the polarity is reversed. If so and the site connector is of the two pin type with the two metal strips for the earth, then the plug may be unplugged and inserted the other way round which will then reverse the polarity.
Q: What type of leisure battery should be used with the system?
It is essential that a proprietary brand leisure battery is used, suggested from the NCC Verified Battery Scheme with a typical capacity of 75 to 120 Ah. Standard lead acid, AGM, and Lithium batteries with built-in BMS are compatible, but normal car batteries are not suitable.
Q: How do I defrost the refrigerator?
Switch off refrigerator. Remove all food and the ice cube tray. Leave the refrigerator door open to allow air to enter and to prevent formation of mildew. After defrosting, wipe both cooling compartments dry with a cloth. Never remove the layer of ice forcibly or accelerate defrosting using a heat source.
Q: How do I fill the Truma Combi boiler unit with water?
Ensure that the cold water drain tap is closed (level in horizontal position). Turn on the hot tap in either the bathroom or kitchen and position it in the HOT position. Position the handles on the water pump so that it is directed into the heater. Leave the tap open to let air escape while the tank fills; the heater is full once water flows from the tap.
Q: How do I check whether my Thetford Cassette Toilet has a 1-level or a 3-level indication?
Make sure the tank is empty and place it back properly. Then activate the control panel. If no level indication light lights up, your toilet has a 1-level indication. If a green level indication light immediately lights up, your toilet has a 3-level indication.
Q: How do I test if a fault lies with the wiring between the Amplifier and the TV outlet socket using Short Hook Up - Test 1?
Unplug the coaxial plugs from the 'TV' sockets of the Amplifier and using your TV fly lead with Convertor 1 supplied, connect your TV to the Amplifier. Ensure the Antenna Dome is plugged directly into the 'ANT-IN' socket of the Amplifier, switch on, and tune in your TV for the strongest signal. If picture quality improves, the fault lies with the wiring between the Amplifier and the TV outlet socket.
Q: How do I validate my Lunar caravan warranty?
You must complete the 'Validate your Warranty' section located on the Lunar website at http://www.lunarcaravans.com/validate-your-warranty within 28 days of purchase. If you experience problems or do not have computer access, contact your dealership to do it on your behalf.
Q: How do I transfer the warranty to a new owner if I sell my caravan?
Notify Lunar Caravans of the change of ownership by completing the change of ownership form within 28 days of taking subsequent ownership. Enclose full documentary evidence that the vehicle has been serviced annually, a copy of the sales receipt, and an administration fee of £50 (cheques payable to Lunar Caravans Limited) sent to Lunar Caravans Limited, After Sales Department, Sherdley Road, Lostock Hall, Preston, PR5 5JF.