Lunar Roadstar & Cassini Owner's Handbook (2018)
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Lunar Roadstar & Cassini Owner's Handbook (2018).
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
N/A | Smoke alarm does not sound upon pressing the test button | Inspect for obvious damage, check that the unit contains recommended battery type, check that the battery cover has been removed, check that the battery is properly connected, gently vacuum as recommended, or replace battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Smoke alarm operating light remains steadily on or off (does not flash every 40 seconds when not in alarm) | Inspect for obvious damage, check that the unit contains recommended battery type, check that the battery cover has been removed, check that the battery is properly connected, gently vacuum as recommended, or replace battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump operates continuously because the fresh water tank has been completely emptied Possible Cause: The fresh water tank has been completely emptied, so the pump is unable to pressurise the system | Switch the pump off using the isolator switch on the control panel until it is possible for the water tank to be refilled to prevent damage to the water pump. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump fails to start when the taps are opened | 1) Check the fuse(s). 2) Check the power source(s), and ensure there is sufficient voltage to run through the pump. 3) Be sure to check the LED is illuminated on the pump. 4) Ensure there is power running to the pump using a multi-meter. If not refer to your dealer as there may be a fault with the fuse box or cable damage. 5) If the pump is hot to touch allow to cool before retrying. 6) Has the vehicle been winterised correctly? If not the pump may have frozen causing permanent damage. 7) An adjustment to the pressure switch may be required (see pressure switch paragraph in this section for how to do this). | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | The pump is running but will not pressurise the water system (little or no water is being discharged from the tap) | 1) Be sure to check there is water in the fresh water tank. 2) Check the in-line filler is free from debris and is correctly fitted. 3) Ensure that the water system has been primed correctly. 4) Check for restrictions in the water systems plumbing. 5) Ensure there is power running to the pump using a multi-meter. If not refer to your dealer as there may be a fault with the fuse box or cable damage. 6) Ensure the inlet side of the pump is water tight and not allowing air into the system. 7) Using a multi-meter check the voltage is between 10 and 14.5 volts. If not, refer to your dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Pump continues to run (for more than 5 seconds) after taps are closed or pump turns on for no reason | 1) Check for leaks on the high pressure side of the pump. 2) Check the water system has been primed correctly. 3) Ensure the water pump is securely mounted. 4) Check that the piping on the high pressure side of the pump is in good condition. 5) An adjustment to the pressure switch may be required (see pressure switch paragraph in this section for how to do this). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Noisy or rough operation of the water pump | 1) Check for leaks on the high pressure and low pressure side of the pump. 2) Ensure that all pipes within 150mm of the pump are not touching any furniture. 3) Ensure the water pump is securely mounted. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump Rapidly Cycles or water pulses from the taps | 1) Check for leaks on the high pressure and low pressure side of the pump. 2) Check there are no restrictions in the plumbing. 3) An adjustment to the pressure switch may be required (see pressure switch paragraph in this section for how to do this). | DIY Safe |
N/A | No water running from taps when opened but the pump is running Possible Cause: Fresh water tank is empty, pump wired in reverse, pipe in system has been disconnected, kinking in pipes, a blockage in pump inlet or outlet pipe, pump filter blockage, air leak in suction line to the pump, or frozen pipes | Check the fresh water tank. Check wiring and manufacturer's instructions if pump is wired in reverse. Check pipe connections. Check and re-route if kinking in pipes. Inspect water system starting from the fresh water tank for blockages. Clean filter and check manufacturer's instructions for pump filter blockage. Inspect pipes and pipe joints between the water tank and the pump for air leaks in suction line. Check for frozen pipes. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump does not run Possible Cause: Pump incorrectly wired, pump fuse blown, battery disconnected, pump seized or overheated, pump pressure sensing switch may have failed, contacts may be faulty, or wiring connections may be faulty | Refer to pump manufacturer's instruction if pump incorrectly wired. Check the wiring connection and then replace with fuse and correct rating if fuse blown. Check connections if battery disconnected. Refer to pump manufacturer's servicing instructions if pump seized, overheated, or if pressure sensing switch failed. Check contacts in plug and socket are clean and making contact, and check wiring connections. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water is flowing from the cold tap but not the hot Possible Cause: Blockage in the hot pipeline, kinked pipes preventing the water to flow, hot tap blocked or failed, or heater non-return valve is jammed | Disconnect pipes and inspect for blockage in hot pipeline or hot tap blocked/failed. Check and re-route if necessary for kinked pipes. Seek service attention if heater non-return valve is jammed. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Water flows from hot tap but cold tap flow is reduced Possible Cause: Kinked pipe preventing flow, cold pipe line has blockage, cold tap is not connected, or cold tap blocked or failed | Check and re-route if necessary for kinked pipe. Disconnect pipes and 1st connector and inspect up to tap for cold pipe line blockage. Refer to installation instructions if cold tap not connected. Disconnect and inspect if cold tap blocked or failed. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from hot and cold taps Possible Cause: Battery condition is low causing pump to run slowly, new fitted taps reducing flow, pump needs servicing, partially blocked pump filter or in-line filter, outlet pipe kinked restricting flow, water leak, bore size different in taps | Check state of battery charge. Disconnect and check that newly fitted taps have at least 1/4" bore. Refer to pump servicing instruction. Dismantle and clean partially blocked filter if necessary. Check and re-route outlet pipe if kinked. Check all water connections for leaks. Inspect and re-route if pipe kinking restricting flow. Use taps of an equal bore size if bore size different. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump motor runs steadily and will not stop Possible Cause: The battery voltage may be too low (below 10.5 volts) | Check that there is water in the container. Adjust switch or re-charge the battery. Check all the connectors in the pipe work. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Connecting lead between the site and Leisure Vehicle not connected | Check and connect lead | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: RCD switched off | Reset RCD | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: RCD not operating correctly | Check supply polarity; if the RCD continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: MCB switched off | Reset MCB by switching OFF (down position) then back ON (up position), if the MCB continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No or deficient supply from site | Contact site Warden for assistance | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Reverse Polarity light is illuminated on PSU Possible Cause: Mains Supply reversed or generator centre-tapping earth connection | If using site supply, check cable and supply; if using a generator, this is a normal side effect of some generator types where neutral and live are 110V above earth (consult generator handbook for further information). If using outside the UK, this light may illuminate when no fault exists (consult site warden). | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Control Panel has no display / Control Panel problems Possible Cause: Backlight/illumination may have switched off | Press the select button to reactivate the backlight. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control Panel has no display / Control Panel problems Possible Cause: Power supply or connection issue | Check batteries and fuses, turn PSU shutdown switch and charger switch on and ensure mains supply is connected. Check control panel connecting lead at PSU and behind Control Panel. Contact your Dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | 12V power turns off Possible Cause: Battery protect feature has operated to protect the Vehicle battery and or the Leisure battery, or engine has been started disconnecting equipment to meet EMC requirements | See section 3.5.3 for battery protection details or section 2.7 for engine start behavior. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control Panel locked / erratic function Possible Cause: Control panel software may have crashed | Reboot control panel by turning off the PSU isolate switch. Wait 30 seconds then turn the switch back on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Charger not switched on, battery not connected/charged, power button not switched on, battery flat/fuse blown, general fuse blown, equipment unplugged, or PSU overheated | Turn charger switch on; install charged battery; turn power on at control panel; recharge battery and check fuses/charging voltage; check all fuses are intact and correct value; check equipment is connected; if PSU overheated, reduce load and allow to cool down (PSU will automatically restart when cool). Otherwise contact your Dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Fuse blown, pump turned off, or setting incorrect | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table; turn pump on by pressing the pump button at the control panel; ensure pump setting matches your desired requirement (consult dealer to alter internal/external pump feed settings). | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Alde heating: The system is completely dead, the control panel is blank | Check the 20 mm T3.15 Amp glass fuse in the boiler. This is located under the lid of the black plastic service hatch, in a green plastic fuse holder. Check the 12 V supply to the boiler, it should be above 12 V. Check the 12 V cable is plugged into the boiler. Check the cable is plugged into the Alde control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: The boiler will not heat on 230 V electric | Check the circuit breaker and any 230 V fuses. Check that any 230 V fused spurs are on (they will often have an LED indicator and 230 V fuse). Check the 230 V supply (also indicated on the Standby Screen). The fluids in the boiler may already be at operating temperature. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: No hot water | Check that Hot Water Ignore is not activated on the Alde control panel. Check that Continuous pumping is not activated on the Alde control panel. Check for other conflicting settings on the Alde control panel or restore factory defaults. Check the water pump and cold water supply to the boiler. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: No central heating | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank. Check that the circulation pump is responding. Check that hot water boost is not activated on the Alde control panel. If electric heating is not being used, set it to "Off" on the Alde control panel. Use gas and electric heating for best performance. Check that top and bottom vents in the furniture are not obstructed. Check the condition of the heat transfer fluid. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: Circulation pump is noisy | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank. If the inline pump, check speed dial on pump is set to 2-3. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Panel failure 1” & "Panel failure 2" Possible Cause: Moisture is trapped in the control panel. | Remove the Alde control panel from the vehicle and air in a warm, dry place overnight. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Gas failure” Possible Cause: Out of gas or gas is not igniting. | Check the gas cylinder is full. Try a different gas cylinder, ensuring it is propane gas. Check the gas regulator and any isolation valves are open and not frozen. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Overheat red fail” or "Overheat blue fail" Possible Cause: 12 V supply to the boiler dropped to 7 V momentarily, or system overheated. | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank (it should be 1cm above min mark when cool). Check the correct circulation pump is installed, selected and responding. Check 12 V supply for stability. Wait 30 minutes for the fluid to cool down. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Overheat PCB” Possible Cause: Failsafe in boiler has triggered. | Check the fluid level in the expansion tank (it should be 1 cm above the Min mark when cool). Check the boiler compartment is ventilated and that the vents are unobstructed. Do not place stowage in the boiler compartment. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Fan failure” Possible Cause: Combustion fan speed too low after multiple attempts. Bearing may be stiff after a period of disuse. | Check for instability in 12 V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Connection failure” Possible Cause: Loose connection between Alde control panel and boiler. | Unplug cable at the control panel and boiler, then carefully plug back in. Check there is slack on the cable at the control panel, but not excessive weight from free-hanging/unmanaged cable. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Window open” Possible Cause: Optional window sensor has triggered, gas heating is suspended. | Automatically clears and gas heating resumes when window is closed. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “3rd Party Panel C. Fail” Possible Cause: Break in comms between Alde control panel and third party control panel, or third party control panel is installed in software but not fitted. | Check the cable between the Alde control panel and third party control panel. Untick "Third Party Panel" in Installed Accessories Menu. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “Low battery” Possible Cause: 12 V supply to boiler has dropped below 10.5 V, possibly causing system brownout. | Automatically clears when 12 V supply reaches 11 V. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating: “No match Heater/Panel” Possible Cause: EM interference from 230 V power if cables are bundled together, or conductive dirt in socket. | Plug Alde control panel cable into the alternative TIN bus sockets. | DIY Safe |
LED is flashing | Refrigerator 230V mode: “230V” not available or voltage too low | Check mains connection and voltage. | DIY Safe |
LED is flashing | Refrigerator 12V mode: “12V” not available or voltage too low | Check 12V connection, on-board fuse, and battery voltage. | DIY Safe |
LED is flashing | Refrigerator GAS/Auto mode: Flame not ignited | Check gas supply and ignition. | DIY Safe |
Operational Fault | Refrigerator temperature sensor defective Possible Cause: Temperature sensor defective | Contact authorised service centre. | Professional Intervention Required |
Operational Fault | Refrigerator 230V - Heating element defective Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Please inform the Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
Operational Fault | Refrigerator 12V - Heating element defective Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Please inform the Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Inadequate ventilation to the unit. | Check that the ventilation grilles are not covered. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Thermostat setting is too low. | Set thermostat to a higher level. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: The condenser is heavily frosted. | Check that the refrigerator door closes properly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Too much warm food has been stored within short period of time. | Allow warm food to cool down before storage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: The appliance has been running for only a short period of time. | Check whether the cooling compartment works after approx. 4-5 hrs. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool sufficiently Possible Cause: Ambient temperatures too high. | Regularly remove ventilation grilles. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode Possible Cause: Gas cylinder empty. | Change gas cylinder. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode Possible Cause: Is the upstream shut-off device open? | Open shut-off device. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode Possible Cause: Air in the gas pipe? | Switch off the appliance and start again. Repeat this procedure 3-4 times, if necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective. | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: On-board battery discharged. | Check battery, charge it. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: Engine not running. | Start engine. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation Possible Cause: Heating element defective. | Please inform the Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective. | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: Vehicle not connected to mains supply voltage. | Make a connection to a mains power supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation Possible Cause: Heating element defective. | Please inform the Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Very Poor: No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antennas polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following "Short Hook-Up Test 1". | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Poor: Moderate pixilation and sound distortion | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antennas polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following "Short Hook-Up Test 1". | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Medium: Minor pixilation will not receive all channels | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antennas polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following "Short Hook-Up Test 1". | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Strong: Possible pixilation, picture break up and drop out | Reduce the amplifier gain (rotate anti-clockwise). Rotate antenna AWAY from the transmitter. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Very Strong: No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out | Rotate antenna AWAY from transmitter. Switch 'OFF' the amplifier and turn the gain control to maximum (rotate clockwise). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna Amplifier LED does not light | Firstly check there is power to the unit. Secondly check the polarity is correct. Otherwise contact manufacturer for further assistance. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I test the Residual Current Device (RCD)?
Operate the RCD test button each time the vehicle is connected to the mains supply.
Q: How do I set up and operate the event timer to switch 12v power on automatically?
Ensure the clock is set to the correct time, scroll to the System Time Setting screen on the EC480, set the ON time and OFF time as required, set the Timer to ON (a stopwatch symbol will appear in the header), turn off all lights and 12v equipment except the one you want to switch on, and exit the vehicle.
Q: How do I restore default factory settings on the Alde control panel?
1. Press Tool button to access the Settings Menu (bottom right in Main Menu). 2. Press down arrow, until Reset button is displayed. 3. Press the Reset button to proceed.
Q: How do I setup the 12V circulation pump in the expansion tank on the Alde system?
1. Press Tool button to access the Settings Menu (bottom right in Main Menu). 2. Press down arrow, until Installed Accessories button is displayed. 3. Press the Installed Accessories button to access the menu. Find and tick "Optional Pump" by pressing the box. Next, find and untick "Main Manual 12V".
Q: How do I invert the Standby Screen backlight for bedtime on the Alde system?
1. Press Tool button to access the Settings Menu (bottom right in Main Menu). 2. Press down arrow, until Backlight button is displayed. 3. Press Backlight button, select Inverted to proceed.
Q: How do I setup the Antimicrobial function on the Alde heating system?
1. Press Tool button to access the Settings Menu (bottom right in Main Menu). 2. Press down arrow, until Antimicrobial button is displayed. 3. Press Antimicrobial button to proceed.
Q: How do I check whether the waste-holding tank on the Thetford C-260 Cassette Toilet has a 1-level or 3-level indication?
Make sure the tank is empty and place it back properly. Then activate the control panel. If no level indication light lights up, your toilet has a 1-level indication (it will only indicate a full tank). If a green level indication light immediately lights up, your toilet has a 3-level indication (it will indicate empty, half full and full).