Lunar Venus Owner's Handbook (2019)
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Lunar Venus Owner's Handbook (2019).
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
N/A | Front/rear friction pads, coupling ball and mechanism wear indicator shows red lower section obscuring green section | Check these parts immediately. | DIY Safe |
N/A | AKS stabiliser arrowhead lines up with the two red lines on the arm Possible Cause: Friction pads are worn | Replace the friction pads immediately. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump runs very noisy but does not pump water (likely to occur after water container has been refilled) Possible Cause: Pump is air locked | Unplug from socket allowing pump to flood, and reconnect by plugging in again. The correct sequence when refilling the container is to unplug, replace pump in container, then reconnect. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump fails to deliver water Possible Cause: Air in the system | Switch off the pump and shake the pump assembly in the water. Then switch on again. Alternatively, make sure the assembly is positioned fully into the housing. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump does not run at all Possible Cause: Excessive continuous running (or blown fuse / faulty connections) | Replace pump. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump will not run Possible Cause: Pump could be faulty or a wire disconnected, or pump isolating switch is turned off. | Check that the pump isolating switch is turned on. Verify wiring and pump condition. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump cycles on/off Possible Cause: Battery voltage may be too low (at or below 10.5 Volts); air or water leaks in taps and piping; non-return valve held open by grit. | Adjust switch and/or recharge battery. Check for air or water leaks in taps and piping and re-adjust pressure switch. Inspect exploded drawing, remove the three assembly screws to gain access to the non-return valve, and clear any grit. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump motor runs steadily and will not stop Possible Cause: Battery voltage may be too low (at or below 10.5 volts); loose connections in pipe-work; pump air locked. | Check all connections in the pipe-work. Remove the adjusting screw; if the motor still runs, the pump is probably air locked. Turn off the isolator switch and reprime the pump. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Connecting lead between the site and Leisure Vehicle not connected; RCD switched off; RCD not operating correctly; MCB switched off; no or deficient supply from site; other fault. | Check and connect lead as per instructions. Reset RCD. Check supply polarity; if RCD continues to fail contact your dealer. Reset MCB by switching OFF (down position) then back ON (up position); if MCB continues to fail contact your dealer. Contact site Warden for assistance with deficient supply. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Control panel has no display Possible Cause: Backlight/illumination may have switched off; flat batteries or blown fuses; PSU shutdown switch and charger switch turned off; mains supply not connected; loose control panel connecting lead at PSU or behind Control Panel. | Press the power button or select button to reactivate the backlight. Check batteries and fuses, turn PSU shutdown switch and charger switch on, and ensure mains supply is connected. Check control panel connecting lead at PSU and behind Control Panel. Contact your Dealer if necessary. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | 12v Power turns off Possible Cause: Battery protect feature has operated to protect the Vehicle battery and/or Leisure battery; engine has been started, disconnecting equipment to meet EMC requirements; control panel locked/erratic function or software crash. | Recharge battery or manage power consumption. Observe handling instructions or reboot control panel by turning off the PSU isolate switch, waiting 30 seconds, then turning the switch back on. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No 230V supply; charger not switched on; battery not connected and/or charged; power button on control panel not switched on; battery flat or battery fuse blown; fuse blown; equipment switched off or unplugged. | Check 230V supply and connections. Turn charger switch on. Install charged battery. Turn power on at control panel. Recharge battery, check fuses, and verify charging voltage is present at battery. Check all fuses are intact and correct value is installed. Ensure equipment is switched on and connected to the 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | PSU overheated / auto shutdown operated Possible Cause: PSU overheated due to heavy load. | Reduce load on system. Allow PSU to cool down. PSU will automatically restart when cool. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Fuse blown; pump turned off at control panel; setting incorrect. | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. Turn pump on by pressing the pump button at the control panel. Ensure pump feed setting matches your requirement (consult dealer to alter setting if needed). | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Clock is not shown | Set clock | DIY Safe |
N/A | Activated timer is not shown any more Possible Cause: Power supply was interrupted | Set timer 2 | DIY Safe |
N/A | Device does not react any more | Interrupt power supply for 10 seconds | DIY Safe |
N/A | Heater / display does not react | Check 12V supply voltage | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (Inadequate ventilation to the unit) Possible Cause: Inadequate ventilation to the unit | Check that the ventilation grilles are not covered. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (Thermostat setting is too low) Possible Cause: Thermostat setting is too low | Set thermostat to a higher level. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (The condenser is heavily frosted) Possible Cause: The condenser is heavily frosted | Check that the refrigerator door closes properly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (Too much warm food has been stored inside within short period of time) Possible Cause: Too much warm food has been stored inside within short period of time | Allow warm food to cool down before storage. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (The appliance has been running for only a short period of time) Possible Cause: The appliance has been running for only a short period of time | Check whether the cooling compartment works after approximately 4-5 hours. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool sufficiently (Ambient temperatures too high) Possible Cause: Ambient temperatures too high | Regularly remove ventilation grilles. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode (Gas cylinder empty) Possible Cause: Gas cylinder empty | Change gas cylinder. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode (Is the supply shut-off device open?) Possible Cause: Is the supply shut-off device open? | Open the shut-off device. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in gas operation mode (Air in the gas pipe) Possible Cause: Air in the gas pipe | Switch off the appliance and start again. Repeat this procedure 3-4 times, if necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation (On-board fuse defective) Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation (On-board battery discharged) Possible Cause: On-board battery discharged | Check battery, charge it. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation (Engine not running) Possible Cause: Engine not running | Start engine. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in 12V operation (Heating element defective) Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Please inform the Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation (On-board fuse defective) Possible Cause: On-board fuse defective | Fit new fuse. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation (No connection to supply voltage) Possible Cause: No connection to supply voltage | Establish power connection. | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation (AES: gas operation despite connection to the supply voltage?) Possible Cause: AES: gas operation despite connection to the supply voltage? | Appliance switches to gas operation due to insufficient supply voltage (automatically switches back to 230V operation). | DIY Safe |
N/A | The refrigerator does not cool in 230V operation (Heating element defective) Possible Cause: Heating element defective | Please inform Dometic Customer Services. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Burners do not burn evenly (Oven, hob & grill) Possible Cause: Gas bottle is empty, gas tap is closed, burner caps are not correctly positioned, or burners are wet or clogged | Change gas bottle, open tap, allow caps to cool then reposition them, or clear/dry burners. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Spark ignition does not spark (Oven, hob & grill) Possible Cause: 12V DC battery is discharged, connections are loose, or ignition points are wet or dirty | Charge battery, secure connections, or dry/clean ignition points. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control knobs do not function (Oven, hob & grill) Possible Cause: Knobs are mounted incorrectly | Install knobs correctly. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Waste holding tank cannot be removed (Thetford toilet) Possible Cause: Blade is (partly) open | Fully close the blade. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Blade does not move (Thetford toilet) Possible Cause: Blade is blocked | Loosen cap from pour out spout. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Level indication waste holding tank does not work (Thetford toilet) Possible Cause: Mechanism level indication in waste holding tank is stuck | Remove mechanism from waste holding tank and rinse it with tap water. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Waste holding tank leaks (Thetford toilet) Possible Cause: Seal is dry or worn | Spray seal with seal lubricant. Replace seal if worn. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Very Poor: No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out Possible Cause: Incorrect amplifier gain, antenna alignment, or polarization | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. After performing any of the actions above you must re-tune your TV. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Poor: Moderate pixilation and sound distortion Possible Cause: Suboptimal gain, alignment, or polarization | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. After performing any of the actions above you must re-tune your TV. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Medium: Minor pixilation will not receive all channels Possible Cause: Suboptimal gain, alignment, or polarization | Check the amplifier gain is set to maximum (rotate clockwise). Check antenna alignment which must be directed at the transmitter. Ensure the antenna's polarity is correct, whether horizontal or vertical. Bypass the amplifier by following 'Short Hook-Up Test 1'. After performing any of the actions above you must re-tune your TV. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Strong: Possible pixilation, picture break up and drop out Possible Cause: Signal too strong / overload | Reduce the amplifier gain (rotate anti-clockwise). Rotate antenna AWAY from the transmitter. Re-tune your TV. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Status TV Antenna - Very Strong: No picture or sound, TV freezing, severe pixilation, break up and picture drop out Possible Cause: Signal too strong / overload | Rotate antenna AWAY from transmitter. Switch 'OFF' the amplifier and turn the gain control to maximum (rotate clockwise). Re-tune your TV. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I calculate the User Payload (UP)?
The user payload is calculated using the formula: 10L + 10N + 50, where L is the body length of the caravan in metres, N is the number of berths, and 50 is for normal equipment carried.
Q: How is the towing vehicle and caravan ratio determined?
It is determined by the calculation: (actual laden weight of caravan / kerb weight of towing vehicle) x 100%.
Q: How do I measure the noseweight simply without a proprietary indicator?
You can use bathroom scales under the coupling head with a piece of wood fitted between the coupling head and the scales, of such length that the caravan floor is horizontal with the jockey wheel raised.
Q: How do I register my AL-KO Secure wheel lock key?
Register your key using the exclusive security number on the Al-Ko Secure registration card by telephoning 0870 7576788 or 0044 1926 818500, providing the caravan chassis number, a password, and answers to three security questions.
Q: How do I test the carbon monoxide alarm?
It is recommended that the alarm is tested weekly by pressing the test/reset button.
Q: How do I test the smoke alarm?
Press and hold the test button until the alarm sounds (it may take up to 10 seconds). The alarm will stop sounding shortly after the button is released. It is recommended that you test the smoke alarm once a week.
Q: How do I adjust the water pressure switch?
1. With the system properly primed, close all taps and showers. 2. Leave the power supply turned on. 3. Tighten the adjusting screw (clockwise) until the pump runs. 4. Partly open one cold tap to allow water to flow at about 1 pint per 15 seconds. 5. Slowly loosen the adjusting screw until the switch starts to click to complete proper adjustment.
Q: How do I prime the water system if fitted with a submersible pump?
Trapped air in the submersible pump will not allow it to prime. Air can be released by gently shaking the pump under water while the pump is in the water tank but switched off. If an external submersible pump is used, place the pump in the water before connecting to the side of the van.
Q: How do I correct reverse polarity when using overseas mains supplies?
Use a plug-in polarity tester to determine if polarity is reversed. If so and the site connector is of the two-pin type with two metal strips for the earth, unplug the plug and insert it the other way round to reverse the polarity.
Q: How do I remove an oven shelf?
Pull it forward until it stops, raise at the front and remove.
Q: How do I place a shelf back into the oven?
Lower it at the front and slide it backward until it stops.
Q: How do I clean the Status TV antenna gaiter?
Periodically check the gaiter for any signs of damage or wear. If the gaiter fails and small amounts of water drip down the outside of the mast, contact the manufacturer for a replacement unit.
Q: How do I adjust the tension of the flyscreen and sunscreen blinds?
The tension adjustment clips are located at the left side of the cassette (top for flyscreen, lower for sunscreen). Insert a screwdriver into the tension clip, apply gentle inward pressure and rotate one or two clockwise turns to increase tension (or anti-clockwise to reduce). Gently release inward pressure to re-engage the internal ratchet.
Q: How do I assemble the bunk bed?
1. Pull the top edge of the bunk towards you. 2 & 3. With your left hand on the bottom edge, lift upwards and towards you, while your right hand keeps the bunk steady. 4 & 5. As the left hand passes the pivot point allow the right hand to slowly lower the bunk into the rest position. 6. Fold the two part bunk into position. 7. Fit the safety boards into position.
Q: How do I convert the front seats into a double bed?
Lift the front edge of the bed frame slightly in the centre (just enough to clear the carpet but not to collide with the bedside cabinet) then pull the bed frame edge towards the centre of the vehicle. The back rests will then drop into the void to make up the bedding.
Q: How do I validate my Lunar caravan warranty?
Complete the 'Validate your Warranty' section located on the Lunar website at http://www.lunarcaravans.com/validate-your-warranty using your 17-digit VIN number and 3-digit Registration Security Number.
Q: Where can I find the Registration Security Number needed for warranty registration?
The Registration Security Number can be found on the Model Label located inside your fridge or oven. The last 3 digits of the Serial Number (SER.NO) form your Registration Security Number.
Q: How do I transfer the Lunar warranty to a new owner if the caravan is sold?
The warranty may be transferred if the caravan has been regularly serviced by a Lunar or NCC Approved Workshop (AWS). The transfer must be made within 28 days of taking subsequent ownership, and full documentary evidence of annual servicing and the sales receipt must be provided along with a £50 administration fee and a completed change of ownership form.