Question 1

Keyfob will not arm the alarm

Accepted Answer

Start by checking you're within the keyfob's 6m range and move closer if needed. Check the torch works too - a dead battery there needs replacing. If the torch's fine, press arm/disarm and watch for the red light; no light suggests a faulty fob that needs swapping. Try your other keyfob as well - if that also fails, confirm the alarm itself has power by checking the base unit's LCD screen lights up (assuming a charged leisure battery), then try the fob again once you know it's powered. If nothing works, you'll need to relearn the keyfobs following the AS350 Stinger Alarm System's own relearn instructions.

Question 2

AS310/AS300 keyfob doesn't arm the alarm

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: Out of range, discharged keyfob battery, faulty keyfob, lack of power to the alarm system, or unlinked/unlearned keyfob. Start by checking you're within the caravan's 6m range and move closer if needed. Test the torch - if it's not working, the battery's probably discharged and needs replacing. If the torch works, press arm/disarm and check for the red light; no light points to a faulty fob needing replacement. Try the other keyfob too - if it doesn't work either, confirm the alarm has power by looking for the green light as you move about inside the van, then make sure power's available before retrying the fob. If it still won't arm the alarm, relearn the keyfobs using the AS300 Stinger Alarm System's own relearn instructions.

Question 3

Alarm's battery isn't holding its charge, or won't charge at all

Accepted Answer

Check the alarm's 12V supply, and check the charging current in that supply line reads within 0-550mA. A hardware reset will force a fresh charge cycle, which takes around 30 hours to complete.

Question 4

Low Battery

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: Usually a damaged or broken Battery Switch, on pre-May-2012 systems fitted with the 'Green' PCB. On pre-May-2012 Green PCB systems, check the Battery Switch and repair or replace it if it's damaged. Systems from May 2012 onwards use the 'Blue' PCB, which relocated the switch onto the board itself and resolved this.

Question 5

Marker lights don't flash when arming or disarming the system

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: Usually a lack of 12V supply to the alarm system - on Swift models, check fuse 12. Check fuse 12 on Swift models, and confirm the 12V supply is present by listening for the awning relay switching on.

Question 6

Awning Light not operating

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: Either no 12V reaching the alarm system, or a blown internal fuse on the alarm PCB's awning circuit. Check the awning light manually first - if it doesn't work that way either, the fault's in the circuit itself, not the alarm. If it works manually but not through the alarm, check the alarm PCB's internal awning-circuit fuse.

Question 7

Key Fobs not working

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: Either the fob's torch battery is flat, or a power problem made the system forget the fobs such as a flattened leisure battery. Check the torch battery first. If the fobs have been lost from the system, erase and relearn them.

Question 8

Key fob Intermittent Operation

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: Stuck rolling code operation or local interference from other wireless equipment.. Try arming a few more times. Check for nearby wireless equipment that could be interfering and switch it off, and make sure the green antenna cable isn't running alongside any other cabling.

Question 9

Instant Siren On Arming

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: Either the PIR itself or its cable has faulted - usually signalled by 5 beeps on disarm. Reconnect cable at both ends.

Question 10

PIR False Alarming / Not operating

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: Could be a sensitivity setting that doesn't suit the current climate, direct sunlight hitting the PIR, a tracker unit mounted too close to the alarm, or the PIR's protective film never having been removed. Check the sensitivity setting suits the climate, check for direct sunlight on the PIR, check whether a tracker unit is mounted nearby, and confirm the protective film has actually been peeled off the PIR's face.

Question 11

Stinger AS310 alarm does nothing when connected to the 12V supply (faulty capacitor)

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: A known batch fault with capacitor C15, which leaks onto the PCB. Sargent describes this as a known batch fault - capacitor C15 leaks onto the circuit board - and gives no DIY fix. Contact Sargent or your dealer.

Question 12

False alarms triggered by voltage drop or cold weather

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: Fault Signal output to 0v connection. Fixed Post April 2011.. Apply the Green Wire fix - link Pin 6's Fault Signal output through to 0V.

Question 13

Lost Arm/Disarm Beeps

Accepted Answer

Possible cause: Base unit software/hardware glitch.. Try a hardware reset first. If the fault comes back after that, the base unit itself needs replacing.

Sargent Alarms

Technical Specifications

Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I replace my AS210 or AS310 alarm?

Error Code / Indicator	Symptom / Meaning	Possible Cause	Step-by-Step DIY Fix	Suggested Actions
`N/A`	Keyfob will not arm the alarm	—	Start by checking you're within the keyfob's 6m range and move closer if needed. Check the torch works too - a dead battery there needs replacing. If the torch's fine, press arm/disarm and watch for the red light; no light suggests a faulty fob that needs swapping. Try your other keyfob as well - if that also fails, confirm the alarm itself has power by checking the base unit's LCD screen lights up (assuming a charged leisure battery), then try the fob again once you know it's powered. If nothing works, you'll need to relearn the keyfobs following the AS350 Stinger Alarm System's own relearn instructions.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	AS310/AS300 keyfob doesn't arm the alarm	Out of range, discharged keyfob battery, faulty keyfob, lack of power to the alarm system, or unlinked/unlearned keyfob	Start by checking you're within the caravan's 6m range and move closer if needed. Test the torch - if it's not working, the battery's probably discharged and needs replacing. If the torch works, press arm/disarm and check for the red light; no light points to a faulty fob needing replacement. Try the other keyfob too - if it doesn't work either, confirm the alarm has power by looking for the green light as you move about inside the van, then make sure power's available before retrying the fob. If it still won't arm the alarm, relearn the keyfobs using the AS300 Stinger Alarm System's own relearn instructions.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	Alarm's battery isn't holding its charge, or won't charge at all	—	Check the alarm's 12V supply, and check the charging current in that supply line reads within 0-550mA. A hardware reset will force a fresh charge cycle, which takes around 30 hours to complete.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	Low Battery	Usually a damaged or broken Battery Switch, on pre-May-2012 systems fitted with the 'Green' PCB	On pre-May-2012 Green PCB systems, check the Battery Switch and repair or replace it if it's damaged. Systems from May 2012 onwards use the 'Blue' PCB, which relocated the switch onto the board itself and resolved this.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	Marker lights don't flash when arming or disarming the system	Usually a lack of 12V supply to the alarm system - on Swift models, check fuse 12	Check fuse 12 on Swift models, and confirm the 12V supply is present by listening for the awning relay switching on.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	Awning Light not operating	Either no 12V reaching the alarm system, or a blown internal fuse on the alarm PCB's awning circuit	Check the awning light manually first - if it doesn't work that way either, the fault's in the circuit itself, not the alarm. If it works manually but not through the alarm, check the alarm PCB's internal awning-circuit fuse.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	Key Fobs not working	Either the fob's torch battery is flat, or a power problem made the system forget the fobs such as a flattened leisure battery	Check the torch battery first. If the fobs have been lost from the system, erase and relearn them.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	Key fob Intermittent Operation	Stuck rolling code operation or local interference from other wireless equipment.	Try arming a few more times. Check for nearby wireless equipment that could be interfering and switch it off, and make sure the green antenna cable isn't running alongside any other cabling.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	Instant Siren On Arming	Either the PIR itself or its cable has faulted - usually signalled by 5 beeps on disarm	Reconnect cable at both ends.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	PIR False Alarming / Not operating	Could be a sensitivity setting that doesn't suit the current climate, direct sunlight hitting the PIR, a tracker unit mounted too close to the alarm, or the PIR's protective film never having been removed	Check the sensitivity setting suits the climate, check for direct sunlight on the PIR, check whether a tracker unit is mounted nearby, and confirm the protective film has actually been peeled off the PIR's face.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	Stinger AS310 alarm does nothing when connected to the 12V supply (faulty capacitor)	A known batch fault with capacitor C15, which leaks onto the PCB	Sargent describes this as a known batch fault - capacitor C15 leaks onto the circuit board - and gives no DIY fix. Contact Sargent or your dealer.	Professional Intervention Required
`N/A`	False alarms triggered by voltage drop or cold weather	Fault Signal output to 0v connection. Fixed Post April 2011.	Apply the Green Wire fix - link Pin 6's Fault Signal output through to 0V.	DIY Safe
`N/A`	Lost Arm/Disarm Beeps	Base unit software/hardware glitch.	Try a hardware reset first. If the fault comes back after that, the base unit itself needs replacing.	DIY Safe