Swift Touring Caravans Owner's Handbook (2026)
Official technical documentation and workshop diagnostics for Swift Touring Caravans Owner's Handbook (2026).
Master Troubleshooting & Diagnostics Matrix
| Error Code / Indicator | Symptom / Meaning | Step-by-Step DIY Fix | Suggested Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
RED LED | AL-KO ATC Trailer control system initial self-test fails or LED does not change to green upon connection of the 13 pin connector Possible Cause: ATC is not functioning correctly or electrical connection between towing vehicle and caravan is not in good working order | Do not tow the caravan until it has been rectified. Please refer to the AL-KO ATC handbook for more details and fault finding. | Professional Intervention Required |
Green band not visible | Hitch head (AKS 3004) connected to tow ball but green band is not visible below the red indicator button Possible Cause: Not properly connected to the tow ball | It is not safe to tow the caravan. Contact your dealer for advice. | Professional Intervention Required |
Green band showing | Green band is showing when the hitch head is not connected to the tow ball (AKS 3004) Possible Cause: There is a hitch head fault | Contact your Dealer. Do not tow the caravan. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Tow car incorrectly advises driver of a caravan road lighting bulb failure, or flashes/pulses lights during use Possible Cause: Tow car is fitted with a Vehicle Light Monitoring System (VLM) expecting a tungsten bulb load or sending an energy pulse, while caravan is fitted with LED road lighting | Use an alternative towing fusebox interface between the tow car's VLM system and the road lights fitted to the touring caravan (available through any Swift Group Dealer, chargeable). | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Issues with the fridge supply from the tow car harness Possible Cause: Relay located within the boot of the tow car requires adjustment | Contact your tow vehicle electrics installer or an auto electrician to verify the installation. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Exterior door fails to close properly Possible Cause: Caravan is not correctly sited and levelled, leading to body distortion | Ensure the caravan is correctly sited and levelled. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Internal E&P control panel loses pairing / runs flat Possible Cause: Internal control panel is not regularly charged and has run flat | The system will require re-pairing to the control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water pump will not start when the tap is opened Possible Cause: Blown fuse, lack of power, pump overheat, frost damage from winter storage, or incorrect pressure switch setting. | Check fuse(s). Check power source(s), and ensure there is sufficient voltage to run the pump. Ensure ‘pump’ LED is illuminated. Using a multi-meter, ensure there is power at the pump. If not, refer to your dealer as there maybe damaged cabling or a fault with the fusebox. Is the pump hot? If so, allow to cool before retrying. Has the vehicle been stored over winter? Was it correctly winterised? If no, the pump may have frozen, causing permanent damage. The pressure switch may need adjusting. See adjustment instructions in the handbook on how to do this. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Water pump runs, but will not pressurise system (i.e. no or little water being discharged from taps) - Not Pulsing Possible Cause: Empty water source, air locks, plumbing restrictions, power supply issues, air leaks on the inlet side, or incorrect voltage. | Ensure water in source is present (on-board tank or aqua roll). Ensure water system has been primed correctly, and there are no air-locks present. Ensure there are no restrictions in the plumbing. Using a multi-meter, ensure there is power at the pump. If not, refer to your dealer as there maybe damaged cabling or a fault with the fusebox. Ensure the inlet side of the pump and Truma inlet are watertight and not allowing air into the system. Check (using a multimeter) that the voltage at the pump is between 10v-14.5v. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Water pump continues to run (for more than 5 seconds) after taps are closed or pump turns on for no reason Possible Cause: Leaks on the high pressure side, air-locks, loose pump mounting, damaged high pressure piping, or pressure switch out of adjustment. | Check for leaks on the high pressure side of the pump including the push fit connections. Ensure water system has been primed correctly, and there are no air-locks present. Ensure the pump is securely mounted. Ensure the piping on the high pressure side of the pump is in good condition (not blowing or deforming). The pressure switch may need adjusting. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Noisy or rough water pump operation Possible Cause: Leaks on high or low pressure sides, pipes touching furniture, or insecure pump mounting. | Check for leaks on the high pressure and low pressure side of the pump. Ensure that all pipes (especially those within 150mm of the pump) are not touching any furniture. Ensure the pump is securely mounted. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump rapidly cycles (switches on or off) or water pulses from taps, including temperature pulsing Possible Cause: Leaks on high/low pressure side, plumbing restrictions, or pressure switch setting. | Check for leaks on the high pressure and low pressure side of the pump. Ensure there are no restrictions in the plumbing. The pressure switch may need adjusting. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump fails to deliver water (Ultraflow water intake) Possible Cause: Air in the system. | Switch off the pump and shake the pump assembly in the external water container. Then switch on again. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water not flowing from any tap when operated but pump runs Possible Cause: Freshwater tank empty, pump wired in reverse, pipe inlet or outlet pipe disconnected, pump pipes restricted by kinking, blockage in pump inlet or outlet pipe, or leak in suction line to pump | Check water level, check wiring (refer to pump manufacturer's instructions), check connections, check pipe run, check for blockages starting inside the freshwater tank, and check for bubbles in the suction line. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump does not run Possible Cause: Pump or tap incorrectly wired, pump fuse blown, battery disconnected, pump seized or overheated, pressure pump sensing switch may have failed, contacts may be faulty, or wiring connections may be faulty | Refer to pump/tap manufacturer's instructions, check wiring connection and replace with fuse of correct rating, check connections, refer to pump manufacturer's servicing instructions, check contacts in plug and socket are clean and making contact, and check wiring connections. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water flows from cold tap but not from hot Possible Cause: Feed pipe to water heater incorrectly connected to the heater outlet, blockage in hot pipeline, heater inlet or outlet pipes kinked preventing flow, hot tap not connected, hot tap failed or blocked, or heater non-return valve jammed | Refer to installation instructions, disconnect pipes and inspect, check and re-route pipes if necessary, connect hot tap if required, disconnect and inspect hot tap, or refer to dealer for jammed non-return valve. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | Water flows from hot tap but has reduced flow from cold Possible Cause: Cold water pipe kinked preventing flow, blockage in cold pipe line, cold tap not connected, or cold tap failed or blocked | Check and re-route pipe if necessary, disconnect pipes after 1st connector and check up to tap, refer to installation instructions, or disconnect and inspect cold tap. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from both hot and cold taps Possible Cause: Battery condition low causing pump to run slowly, new taps fitted may be restricting flow, pump needs servicing, pump outlet pipe kinked restricting flow, or water leak | Check battery state of charge (refer to electrical supply note), disconnect new taps and check that they have at least 1/4" (6.3mm) bore, refer to pump servicing instructions, check and re-route outlet pipe if necessary, or check all water connections. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reduced flow from either tap Possible Cause: Pipe kinking restricting flow | Check and re-route pipe if necessary. | DIY Safe |
N/A | If pump motor runs steadily and will not stop Possible Cause: Battery voltage may be too low (below 10.5 volts) or pressure switch setting problem | Check that there is water in the container, adjust switch and/or re-charge battery, check all connections in pipework, and adjust settings. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Hob does not light Possible Cause: No gas or air in pipe | Check level of gas in the cylinder, check gas cylinder valve is on, check gas taps are on, purge system, or refer to hob manufacturer's instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Oven does not light Possible Cause: No gas or air in pipe | Check level of gas in the cylinder, check gas cylinder valve is on, check gas taps are on, purge system, or refer to oven manufacturer's instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde or Truma boiler will not light Possible Cause: No gas, over gassed, or air in pipe | Check level of gas in cylinder, check gas cylinder valve is on, check gas taps are on, check exhaust outlet is clear, turn off appliance, wait 2 minutes and try again, purge system, or refer to boiler manufacturer's instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Fridge does not light Possible Cause: No gas or air in pipe | Check level of gas in the cylinder, check gas cylinder valve is on, check gas taps are on, purge system, or refer to fridge manufacturer's instructions. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 Volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Connecting lead between the site and Leisure Vehicle not connected | Check and connect lead. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 Volt output from PSU Possible Cause: RCD switched off | Reset RCD. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 230 Volt output from PSU Possible Cause: RCD not operating correctly | Check supply polarity; if the RCD continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 230 Volt output from PSU Possible Cause: MCB switched off | Reset MCB by switching OFF (down position) then back ON (up position), if the MCB continues to fail contact your Dealer as there is probably an equipment or wiring fault. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 230 Volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No or deficient supply from site | Contact site Warden for assistance. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | No 230 Volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Another fault | Contact your Dealer | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Reverse Polarity light is illuminated on PSU Possible Cause: Mains Supply reversed? | The reverse polarity light is designed to illuminate when the Live and Neutral supply has been reversed / crossed over. If the light illuminates there is a problem with the site supply or the cable connecting the supply to your vehicle. The light is designed to work on UK electrical supplies (where the neutral conductor is connected to earth at the substation). If you are using your vehicle outside the UK this light may illuminate when no fault exists. In these cases, consult the site warden for advice. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Reverse Polarity light is illuminated on PSU Possible Cause: Generator being used | 'The Reverse Polarity warning light is on when using my Generator'. This is a normal side effect when using some types of generator. Instead of connecting the neutral conductor to earth, some generators centre-tap the earth connection making both neutral and live conductors 110V above earth. This 110V difference causes the neon polarity indicator to illuminate. In most cases it is still safe to use the generator, but please consult the generator handbook for further information. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reverse Polarity light is illuminated on PSU Possible Cause: Mains Supply reversed / Generator being used | The reverse polarity light is designed to illuminate when the Live and Neutral supply has been reversed / crossed over. If the light illuminates there is a problem with the site supply or the cable connecting the supply to your vehicle. The light is designed to work on UK electrical supplies (where the neutral conductor is connected to earth at the sub station). If you are using your vehicle outside the UK this light may illuminate when no fault exists. In these cases, consult the site warden for advice. If using a generator, this is a normal side effect when using some types of generator where the neutral and live conductors are 110V above earth due to a centre-tapped earth connection; consult the generator handbook for further information. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Control Panel has no display | Check batteries and fuses, turn PSU isolate switch and charger switch on and ensure mains supply is connected. Check control panel connecting lead at PSU and behind Control Panel. Contact your Dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
14V LED flashing | 12V Power turns off (Control Panel is beeping, over voltage protection activated) Possible Cause: Battery protect feature, over voltage protection (common cause is the solar panel), or engine started disconnecting equipment to meet EMC requirements. | Check the solar regulator is connected correctly and operating within the correct parameters. If engine has started, equipment is automatically disconnected to meet EMC requirements. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Control Panel locked / erratic function Possible Cause: Control panel software may have crashed. | Observe control panel handling instructions. Reboot control panel by turning off the PSU isolate switch. Wait 30 seconds then turn the switch back on. Check with your dealer that your system has the latest software installed, as an update may be available. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 12 volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No 230V supply, charger not switched on, battery not connected/charged, power button off, battery flat/fuse blown, equipment switched off/unplugged. | Check all above. Turn charger switch on (switch will illuminate). Install charged battery. Turn power on at control panel. Recharge battery, check fuses, check charging voltage is present at battery. Check all fuses are intact and correct value. Check equipment is switched on and connected to 12V supply. Otherwise contact your Dealer. | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
N/A | No 12-volt output from PSU Possible Cause: No 230V supply | Check all above (230V supply checks). | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12-volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Charger not switched on | Turn charger switch on, switch will illuminate. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12-volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Battery not connected and / or charged | Install charged battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12-volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Power button on control panel not switched to on | Turn power on at control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12-volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Battery flat / Battery fuse blown | Recharge battery, check fuses, check charging voltage is present at battery. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12-volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Fuse blown | Check all fuses are intact and the correct value fuse is installed as per fuse table. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12-volt output from PSU Possible Cause: Equipment switched off / unplugged | Check equipment is switched on and connected to the 12V supply. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Fuse blown | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Pump not working Possible Cause: Pump turned off | Turn pump on by pressing the pump button at the control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Lights not working Possible Cause: Fuse/s blown or lights turned off | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. Turn lights on by pressing the lights button, use dimmer at the control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Lights not working Possible Cause: Fuse/s blown | Replace fuse with correct value as per fuse table. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Lights not working Possible Cause: Lights turned off | Turn Lights on by pressing the lights button, use dimmer at the control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | 12V Power turns off Possible Cause: Battery protect feature has operated to protect the Vehicle battery and or the Leisure battery. Over voltage protection has been activated. Engine has been started; all equipment has been disconnected to meet EMC requirements. | Check if the regulator is connected correctly and operating within the correct parameters (most common cause of over voltage protection is the solar panel). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Reverse Polarity light is illuminated on PSU when using a generator Possible Cause: Generator being used | This is a normal side effect when using some types of generator. Instead of connecting the neutral conductor to earth, some generators centre-tap the earth connection making both neutral and live conductors 110V above earth. This 110V difference causes the neon polarity indicator to illuminate. In most cases it is still safe to use the generator, but please consult the generator handbook for further information. | DIY Safe |
N/A | 12V Power turns off due to over voltage Possible Cause: Over voltage protection has been activated, the control panel will display a warning. A number of things can cause this but the most common is the solar panel, it is worth checking the regulator is connected correctly and operating within the correct parameters. | Check the regulator is connected correctly and operating within the correct parameters. | DIY Safe |
N/A | No 12-volt output from PSU due to another fault Possible Cause: Another fault | Contact your Dealer. | Professional Intervention Required |
N/A | Communications not working Possible Cause: Bluetooth not paired | Using System Settings menu, select Bluetooth Pair option. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Communications not working Possible Cause: Bluetooth not active on Device | Ensure that the handheld device has Bluetooth switched on and that the device supports the Bluetooth 4 standard (BLE). | DIY Safe |
N/A | Communications not working Possible Cause: Bluetooth out of range | Ensure the handheld device is within 7M of the middle of the caravan. | DIY Safe |
Operational Fault | Whale Space Heater lockout Possible Cause: Poor gas or d.c. supply or internal Space Heater malfunction | Turn the d.c. power 'off' and then 'on' again at the vehicle's power supply unit. If this does not clear the lockout, or any other lockout is displayed (i.e. 2 or all 12 bars lit) - please press the red Reset Button on the Water Heater once for one second. | DIY Safe |
Operational Fault | Whale Space Heater lockout Possible Cause: Internal Space Heater malfunction or supply issue | Press the red Reset Button on the Water Heater once for one second. | DIY Safe |
#17 | Truma Combi heating fault: Summer mode with empty water container Possible Cause: Summer mode active while water container is empty | Switch device off and allow to cool. Fill boiler with water | DIY Safe |
#401 | Truma Combi heating fault: Summer mode with empty water container Possible Cause: Summer mode active with empty boiler | Switch heater off and allow to cool. Fill boiler with water | DIY Safe |
#18 | Truma Combi heating fault: Warm air outlet blocked or Circulated air intake blocked Possible Cause: Blocked outlet or intake | Check each of the outlet openings. Remove the blockage from the circulated air intake | DIY Safe |
#21 | Truma Combi heating fault: Room temperature sensor or cable faulty Possible Cause: Faulty room temperature sensor or cable | Inspect the room temperature sensor cable, replace if faulty. Check the resistance of the room temperature sensor. 15°C – 16.2 kOhm / 20°C – 12.6 kOhm / 25°C – 10.0 kOhm Replace the room temperature sensor if faulty | DIY Safe |
#621 | Truma Combi heating fault: Room temperature sensor or cable faulty Possible Cause: Faulty sensor or wiring | Inspect the room temperature sensor cable, replace if faulty. Check the resistance of the room temperature sensor. 15°C – 16.2kOhm / 20°C – 12.6 kOhm / 25°C – 10.0 kOhm Replace room temperature sensor if faulty | DIY Safe |
#24 | Truma Combi heating fault: Risk of low voltage. Battery voltage is too low < 10.4 V Possible Cause: Battery voltage too low | Charge battery | DIY Safe |
#29 | Truma Combi heating fault: Frost Control heating element has a short circuit Possible Cause: Short circuit in Frost Control heating element | Disconnect heating element plug from electronic control unit. Replace heating element | DIY Safe |
#42 | Truma Combi heating fault: Open window above cowl (window switch) Possible Cause: Window open above cowl | Close the window | DIY Safe |
#43 | Truma Combi heating fault: Over-voltage > 16.4V Possible Cause: Battery voltage or voltage source too high | Check battery voltage / voltage sources such as the charger | DIY Safe |
#417 | Truma Combi heating fault: Overvoltage > 16.4 V Possible Cause: Voltage too high | Check battery voltage / voltage sources such as the charger | DIY Safe |
#44 | Truma Combi heating fault: Low voltage. Battery voltage is too low < 10.0 V Possible Cause: Battery voltage too low | Charge battery. If necessary replace old battery | DIY Safe |
#45 | Truma Combi heating fault: No 230 V operating voltage / Faulty 230V fuse / Overheating protection has triggered Possible Cause: Loss of 230V supply, blown fuse, or overheating | Restore 230V operating voltage. Replace 230V fuse. Please contact Truma Service | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
#112, #202, #121, #211 | Truma Combi heating fault: Gas cylinder or quick-acting valve closed, gas pressure regulation system iced up, or butane content too high Possible Cause: Closed gas valve, frozen regulator, or unsuitable gas type | Check gas supply and open valves. Use regulator heater (EisEx). Use propane. Butane is unsuitable for heating, particularly at temperatures lower than 10°C. | DIY Safe |
#122, #212 | Truma Combi heating fault: Combustion air infeed or exhaust outlet sealed, gas pressure regulation system faulty, or electronic system faulty Possible Cause: Blocked flues, faulty regulator, or electronic fault | Inspect openings for obstructions (slush, ice, leaves, etc.) and remove any obstructions. Inspect / replace gas pressure regulation system. Please contact Truma Service | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
#255 | Truma Combi heating fault: Heater has no 12 V power supply or no connection between heater and control panel Possible Cause: Missing 12V supply or control panel connection issue | Ensure that the 12V power supply is available. Make connection between heater and control panel. Control panel cable faulty: Please contact the Truma Service | DIY Check / Tech Fallback |
#402 | Truma Combi heating fault: Warm air temperature exceeded: Not all warm air ducts connected, warm air outlets blocked, or circulated air intake blocked Possible Cause: Restricted airflow or disconnected ducts | Check whether the 4 warm air ducts are connected. Check the individual outlet openings. Remove the circulated air intake blockage | DIY Safe |
#407 | Truma Combi heating fault: No 230 V operating voltage or 230 V fuse defective Possible Cause: Mains supply loss or blown fuse | Restore 230 V operating voltage. Replace 230 V fuse (see Combi operating instructions) | DIY Safe |
#408 | Truma Combi heating fault: No gas supply in mix mode Possible Cause: Gas supply interrupted during mix mode | Check gas supply. See fault #507 (electronic heating continues in Mix mode) | DIY Safe |
#419 | Truma Combi heating fault: Overheating protection has triggered Possible Cause: Appliance overheated | Reset overheating protection (see Combi operating instructions) (gas heating continues in Mix mode) | DIY Safe |
#514 | Truma Combi heating fault: The 12v supply has been interrupted Possible Cause: Interrupted 12V supply | Ensure the control panel of caravan / motorhome is switched on. Ensure charger is switched on and/or battery is connected. | DIY Safe |
#507, #516, #517 | Truma Combi heating fault: Gas cylinder empty, gas valve closed, gas pressure regulator iced up, butane content too high, or combustion air infeed/exhaust sealed Possible Cause: Gas lockout / gas supply interrupted | Restore the gas supply, for example by connecting a full gas cylinder. Then confirm or delete the fault code by tapping the rotary push button. Wait out the 15-minute blocking time for the heater. During this time, do not switch off the heater's control panel and also do not interrupt the power supply. | DIY Safe |
#607 | Truma Combi heating fault: Max. number of fault resets reached Possible Cause: Too many failed reset attempts | Wait 15 minutes and reset fault | DIY Safe |
#624 | Truma Combi heating fault: FrostControl heating element has a short circuit Possible Cause: Short circuit in FrostControl heating element | Disconnect heating element plug from electronic control unit. Replace heating element | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating system: The system is completely dead, the control panel is blank Possible Cause: Blown fuse or missing 12V supply / loose connection | Check the 20 mm T3.15 Amp glass fuse in the boiler (located under the lid of the black plastic service hatch, in a green plastic fuse holder). Check the 12 V supply to the boiler, it should be above 12 V. Check the 12 V cable is plugged into the boiler. Check the cable is plugged into the Alde control panel. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating system: The boiler will not ignite on gas Possible Cause: Empty gas cylinder, non-propane gas, or system already at operating temperature | Check the gas cylinder is full. Try a different gas cylinder, ensuring it is propane gas. The system may not need to use gas heating, if also using electric heating. The fluids in the boiler may already be at operating temperature. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating system: The boiler will not heat on 230V electric Possible Cause: Mains isolation switch off, no 230V supply, or fluid at operating temperature | Check that the 230v isolation button on the Sargent Power Supply Unit is switched ON. Check the 230 V supply to the vehicle. The fluids in the boiler may already be at operating temperature. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating system: No hot water Possible Cause: Incorrect control panel settings or lack of water supply | Check that hot water ignore is not activated on the Alde control panel. Check that constant pumping is not activated on the Alde control panel. Check for other conflicting settings on the Alde control panel. Check the freshwater supply and water pump. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Alde heating system: No central heating Possible Cause: Air in system, low fluid, pump issue, incorrect settings, or obstructed vents | Bleed the system of air. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank. Check that the circulation pump is responding. Check that hot water boost is not activated on the Alde control panel. Use gas and electric heating. Check that vents in the furniture are not obstructed. Check the condition of the heat transfer fluid. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Omni-vent ventilator stops working unexpectedly Possible Cause: Tension is too high (19.5 V), too low (11.1 V), or the fan is blocked. | Check the system voltage to ensure it is within the safe operating range (between 11.1V and 19.5V) and check the fan for any blockages preventing rotation. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water comes out of the air intake hole on the Ecocamel Jetstorm shower head when it is operational Possible Cause: A build-up of limescale in the shower head is causing back pressure, which forces water out of the air intake hole in the handle. | Unscrew the faceplate manually. Use a dedicated shower head limescale remover or soak the disassembled shower head in white vinegar for at least 30 minutes to an hour. Wipe away any remaining limescale and reassemble the faceplate, remembering to include the rubber o-ring. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Water leaks from where the Ecocamel Jetstorm shower head attaches to the hose Possible Cause: Missing washer in the shower head connection. | Unscrew the shower head and make sure that a washer is in place. | DIY Safe |
N/A | Condensation appears between the double panes of acrylic windows Possible Cause: Extremes in temperatures occurring between night and day, or washing the vehicle on a hot day, combined with non-vacuum-sealed double panes fitted with a breathable plug. | The condensation should clear itself when ambient conditions return to normal and the air between the panes dries. If it takes longer than required, the breathable plug (normally located in the top corner of the window) can be removed with a pin or sharp object, and replaced when the panes are dry. | DIY Safe |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I register my caravan's warranty?
To register your warranty, please use the My Swift Life process by visiting www.myswiftlife.co.uk, follow the instructions, and ensure you have your chassis number to hand.
Q: How do I transfer the warranty when changing ownership?
The benefit of the SuperSure Warranty and Body Shell Warranty may be transferred to a new owner if the caravan is re-sold, provided the caravan has been serviced in accordance with handbook requirements and details of the change of ownership have been supplied to Swift. Alternatively, forward your proof of purchase to our Customer Experience Team at enquiries@swiftleisure.co.uk.
Q: Where can I find the serial or chassis number of my caravan?
The serial/chassis number can be found on the weight plate labels located next to the exterior door and inside the gas locker. It is also etched into the side windows.
Q: What should I do if the 13-pin connector inner ring becomes a 'floating' incorrect alignment during removal?
Insert the edge of the protrusion on the plug into the groove in the socket and rotate the plug body anti-clockwise until a click is felt to re-establish the lock between the inner and outer parts.
Q: How do I remove the gas strut on the Basecamp gas locker to access the spare wheel?
Open gas locker and remove the locking pin from its resting position towards the back of the bracketry. Refit locking pin into locked position, ensure pin is pushed through the full bracket. Once located the bracketry alone will hold the door in its open position. Once the locking pin is located, lever out the clip from the gas strut ends using a flat head screwdriver or similar tool, then repeat at the other end to pull the gas strut away from the ball studs.
Q: What are the correct wheel bolt tightening torque figures?
Steel wheels must be tightened to 88Nm (65lb/ft) and alloy wheels to 130Nm (96lb/ft) in the correct sequence.
Q: How do I operate the tank heater (anti-frost element) for the external fresh water tank?
Turn the control panel ON, move to the Water menu, and turn the tank heater ON. Operation is automatic provided the water level is at least 25% and the external temperature is below +5 degrees C (and above +2 degrees C).
Q: What should I do if the reverse polarity indicator on the PSU lights up when connected to an overseas mains supply or generator?
Reverse polarity results in equipment not necessarily being isolated when turned off. The only sure way to make equipment safe is to unplug it. When using certain generators, the 110v difference relative to earth can also cause the neon polarity indicator to illuminate, which in most cases is safe to continue using (consult the generator handbook for further information).
Q: How do I set the correct battery type for the PX310 battery charger?
After switching on charger press OK button for 3 seconds to enter Setup Mode, the battery type should then start to flash. Press the arrow button to change battery type, then press OK to confirm.
Q: How do I put the charger into Silent Mode?
During charging press the button for 3 seconds to enter Silent Mode. Press the button again to exit Silent Mode. The charger will also exit Silent Mode when turned off then on again, or after 12 hours have passed.
Q: How do I set the battery type on the PX310 battery charger?
After switching on charger press OK button for 3 seconds to enter Setup Mode, the battery type should then start to flash. Press the right arrow button to change battery type, then press OK to confirm.
Q: How do I put the PX310 battery charger into Silent Mode?
During charging press the button for 3 secs to enter Silent Mode. Press the button again to exit Silent Mode. The charger will also exit Silent Mode when the charger is turned off then on again, or after 12 hours have passed.
Q: How do I clear a Truma Combi solid error code?
Using the control dial on the cp+ panel scroll down to the bottom line where the triangle appears. Press this button to acknowledge the error. The error code and triangle should disappear if the fault has been rectified.
Q: How do I clear a Truma Combi flashing error code?
Scroll round to acknowledge the error on the panel. Leave the panel UNTOUCHED for 15 minutes to allow checking of fuel sources. After 15 minutes the triangle will become solid, and the panel can then be reset as per a solid error code.
Q: How do I clear a Dometic refrigerator gas lockout?
First check that a gas supply is available by checking the gas bottle valve, manifold taps, and lighting a hob burner. Next, at the fridge, press the power ON/OFF button for 2-3 seconds until the fridge beeps to clear the warning and resume automatic energy selection.
Q: How do I remove small scratches from my acrylic caravan windows?
Small scratches can be removed, consult your dealer.
Q: What is the correct exterior touch-up paint code for white components on Swift Group caravans?
The correct colour code for all white components is Fiat White 249.
Q: What is the correct exterior paint match for the grey on Swift caravan sidewalls?
The grey on the sidewalls has been matched to grey FLNA 70309.